週次 |
日期 |
單元主題 |
第1週 |
9/11 |
Introduction |
第2週 |
9/18 |
reviews of basics |
第3週 |
9/25 |
The Hydrodynamic Equations:
Conservation of mass, Equation of motion in ocean
|
第4週 |
10/2 |
The Hydrodynamic Equations:
Conservation of mass, Equation of motion in ocean
|
第5週 |
10/9 |
放假 |
第6週 |
10/16 |
Scaling of motion, Perturbation method.
III. Theory of waves: small amplitude gravity wave problem formulation |
第7週 |
10/23 |
III. Theory of waves: small amplitude gravity wave problem formulation |
第8週 |
10/30 |
III. Theory of waves: small amplitude gravity wave problem formulation |
第9週 |
11/6 |
III. theory of waves: small amplitude gravity wave problem formulation |
第10週 |
11/13 |
small amplitude gravity wave solution and Gravity-Capillary wave solution. |
第11週 |
11/20 |
Dispersion relation, standing wave and waves on a uniform current |
第12週 |
11/27 |
IV. Engineering properties of GW: particle velocity and trajectory, pressure and pure standing waves |
第13週 |
12/4 |
Midterm Exam |
第14週 |
12/11 |
IV. Engineering properties of GW: partial standing waves and energy transfer.
Transformations of waves entering shallow water |
第15週 |
12/18 |
Transformations of waves entering shallow water
V shallow water waves |
第16週 |
12/25 |
V. Shallow water waves |
第17週 |
1/1 |
國定假日(放假)
VI. Statistics of ocean waves |
第18週 |
1/8 |
Final Examination |